Richerenches truffle market : The Richerenches truffle market (Vaucluse department, France) is the largest market in Europe in terms of the quantity of truffles sold. It attracts a number of professionals at the same time: restaurateurs, brokers, traders, preservers, etc. but also individuals assured of finding quality truffles without difficulty. Open since 2008 with a ritual ceremony the ban des truffes, around mid-November, it once again attracts the international media during the celebration of the truffle mass in mid-January.
Richerenches, a medieval village, is one of the four towns which form the Enclave des papes in the Drôme Provençale. It has kept its surrounding wall flanked by four towers. This stronghold returned to the Templars from 1136, they made it the largest commandery in Provence.
The black truffle or tuber melanosporum, holds an important place in the economy of the town. His business before the 1920s was carried out by brokerage. The city council wanted to regularize these transactions by founding a weekly market on Saturdays, between mid-November and mid-March. Several dates of creation are put forward between 1922 and 1924. According to a recent document, it seems that the only date to remember is 1923.
The Ban des Truffes marks the official opening of the Richerenches market.
This is proclaimed by the members of the Brotherhood of the Black Diamond and the Gastronomy dressed in their ceremonial clothes.
The lifting of the truffle ban marks the opening of the new truffle season throughout the south-east of France, the leading producer of black truffles known as Périgord truffles, a botanical and non-geographic appellation, since 70% of the truffles marketed in France come from the Vaucluse markets.
This first Richerenches truffle market allows volunteers to caver with truffle dogs, to taste truffles, to attend a conference at the literary café on the truffle, and to enjoy a special truffle menu in the restaurants of the village.
This market, which takes place from mid-November to mid-March, sees more than 700 kilos of black truffles sold each week4 and is the largest in Europe. Richerenches represents more than 50% of the contributions made on the main markets of the South-East and 30% of the national production.
It begins on the Saturday following November 15th. From then on, every Saturday morning from 9 a.m. to 13 p.m., truffle growers, brokers, buyers, amateurs meet on the Cours du Mistral for wholesale and on Avenue de la Rabasse for retail sale3, where all the conversations revolve around the truffle.
For the professional market, the truffle growers' cars are all parked, boot open, on the Cours Mistral. It is on this alley, lined with plane trees, and which does not exceed a hundred meters in length, that the largest truffle market in Europe for wholesalers takes place in one morning. Prices and quantities are negotiated by mutual agreement.
In reality, the market is divided into three sectors because, in addition to wholesale for professionals and retail for individuals, there is a market of regional and artisanal products where are offered: wines, honey, olives, garlic, cheeses, etc. .. This market of local products runs parallel to that of retail truffles on the same aisle.
In 2006, a standard for fresh truffles (Tuber melanosporum and Tuber brumale) was defined, on the basis of an interprofessional agreement, in order to improve and qualify the offer. The truffles offered for sale must be whole, without breaking. They must have the characteristic odor, flavor and color of their species. They should be clean and brushed, free from pests and rot. Finally, they must weigh more than 5 grams.
Whatever the species, a truffle must fall into one of these three categories: Extra Class where top quality truffles of a size greater than or equal to 20 grams are found, Class I which includes good quality truffles showing slight defects, having a size greater than or equal to 10 grams, Category II which includes all other truffles of a size greater than or equal to 5 grams.
Since 1952, the Truffle Mass has been held for the feast of Saint Anthony, patron saint of truffles, it is celebrated in the village church.
It was instituted by Henri Michel-Reyne, then parish priest of Richerenches, and it has since been celebrated every third Sunday in January. On this occasion, during the quest, the basket is filled with truffles which are then sold at auction at the end of the service.
It must be said that at the beginning of the 1950s, the interior of the Templar church being quite dilapidated, it was urgent to replenish the parish finances to carry out work and the new priest "had this fantastic idea of doing a mass for the parish. truffles to raise money ”. It was decided that the collection would only be accepted "melanos" and that these would then be auctioned at a auction at the end of mass.
Capital of truffles and remarkable site of taste: Thanks to its production and its market, Richerenches has been classified as a remarkable site of taste and declared "Capital of quality truffles" by the National Council of Culinary Arts.
Richerenches Truffle Market website.
See Truffle.