Protocol and table label : Set of rules governing the ordering of a meal. These rules are more or less strict, lunch being, in principle, “simpler” than dinner. But, as the gastronome said Brillat Savarin, "Inviting someone to their table means taking care of their happiness while they are under your roof".
Through the centuries. Among the Greeks, etiquette was to put on light sandals before entering the dining room; the first place went to the stranger, and it was the rule to offer him, before the meal, a bath or a washing of the feet. Among the Romans, who ate lying down, the guests changed not only their shoes, but also their clothes, to put on a woolen tunic provided for this purpose; finally, the guests were crowned with flowers. The dishes were first presented to the master of the house, in music, by a servant performing a dance step.
At the time of the Merovingian kings, from the XNUMXth century, a refined ceremonial, inspired by the Byzantine court, was introduced, which was further complicated with Charlemagne: the emperor was seated on the highest seat, while dukes, chiefs and kings of other nations presented dishes to him to the sound of fifes and oboes; these high-ranking nobles did not begin to eat until the imperial meal was over, served in their turn by the counts, prefects and great dignitaries. Over time, kings made a habit of dining alone, and it was a rare honor to be admitted to their side.
At the beginning of the XNUMXth century, François I's table was magnificent, but the desire to eat well, stimulated by the arrival of Florentine cooks, prevailed over the formal arrangement of meals. However, Henry III, fifty years later, revived a severe label, and his enemies accused him of increasing "idolatrous reverences".
In the XNUMXth century, when the Sun King dined "in the open", it was alone, but in public, and courtiers were allowed to see him eat, while each food officer performed his function according to a complicated ceremony. In the "small table", in the privacy, the etiquette was relaxed.
With Louis XV and Louis XVI, the large cover was maintained. Finally, in the XNUMXth century, under the Empire and until the end of the monarchy, etiquette imposed strict rules.
Table setting: Today, the pleasure of the eyes precedes that of the palate, and a table should be nicely set, without ostentatious luxury. The tablecloth, white or with discreet patterns, without folds, placed on a cotton fleece, to soften the contact and dampen noise, must fall at least 20 to 30 cm on the sides. It can be covered with a tablecloth, or a table runner, decorated with flowers and candles (in the evening), or sprinkled with small decorative touches (petals, leaves, etc.); placemats, placed on wood or marble, are suitable for an improvised or summer meal. The cutlery is arranged as follows: fork on the left of the plate (teeth towards the tablecloth, à la française, or upwards, à l'anglaise), soup spoon and main knife on the right (the edge of the blade pointing towards plate) as well as, where appropriate, a fish knife or oyster fork. The cheese and dessert cutlery will only be brought with the corresponding plate, but they can also be placed between the glasses and the plate. Depending on the number of wines, several glasses (no more than three), of decreasing size, are placed in front of the plate. The napkin, nicely folded or rolled up and held by a delicate tie (fine paper, ribbon, etc.), is placed on the plate (the fan-shaped napkin in the glass is a practice reserved for restaurants). In the bread basket are arranged sliced bread and / or rolls. A single bun can be placed on a small plate, to the left of the cutlery.
Salt, pepper and small butter dishes are distributed over the table, according to the number of guests; the wine, uncorked in advance, remains in its original bottle, with some exceptions (See Decanting); fresh water is also provided, in a carafe, or mineral water, still and / or sparkling, in bottle (there are very decorative ones).
Place of the guests. With the exception of very official meals, where people sit at the table in pairs, the women are the first to enter the dining room. Up to eight guests, the hostess indicates to each their place. Beyond that, it is good to provide place cards. They must be clearly legible, each surname (perfectly spelled) preceded by Madame, Mademoiselle or Monsieur.
In France, apart from the protocol of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, there are only general rules, with sometimes contradictory requirements. It is the rule to alternate the place of men and that of women, by separating the couples, except if they are newly formed. The receiving couple sits face to face - English style - or in the middle of the table - French style. The places of honor are located to the right of the master and mistress of the house; it is preferable not to allocate these two places to the same couple. It is appropriate to honor an elderly person or a person whose social function is important. A person invited for the first time should be better placed than someone who has already come.